Corte Madera Marsh

After ruling out a trip into SF last Saturday, we were looking for a nice place to take a walk – not far from home, mostly sunny, and mostly flat. The goal was to get a good dose of sun and fresh air without a long drive to get there and without big hills/steep climbs (J’s back is still healing.) We remembered seeing a trail across the street from the mall in Corte Madera (The Villages) when we were there the previous weekend. Looking at the satellite view on google maps, it appeared to be a marshy area, which means birds, and we love birds! And it also appeared open (sunny) and flat. And, finally, it’s a quick, easy, and pleasant drive from our place to that area.

We parked at the mall, crossed over Redwood Highway, and got on the path, heading north. It’s a flat dirt path and the first stretch has a creek along one side and open field then wild fennel along the other side. There was an egret sunning itself on a stump in the creek and another white bird with black legs, yellow feet, and a yellow beak, hanging out along the edge. Now that I’ve looked at our bird book (A Guide to Field Identification – BIRDS of North America), I’m pretty sure the smaller bird was a snowy egret – they’re about 20” tall. The big guy was a great egret – they’re about 32” tall with a wingspan of 55”, which we got to admire when a little dog got too close and he coasted off towards the fennel.

Right before the path turns towards the water (the Bay) there’s a nice stretch of marshland to the left, between the path and creek and the Redwood Highway, which has moved off to the west at this point, creating a sizable distance between it and the path. As we approached that area, a flock of birds came zooming overhead, very fast and close enough that we could hear their wings and feel the wind pushed by those wings. We don’t know what they were and when they landed it was too far away to tell. Note to self: bring field glasses next time we got walking! It was a cool feeling, being that close to the power they generate in flight. We stopped to look out over the marshland and observe the many birds out there. There was a big group of white swans floating in the water, a big group of gulls also floating, and then a few other types hopping and pecking around and making some fun noises (which, of course, would be easier to hear without the traffic noise.) Without the field glasses, we’re not sure what we we were looking at. Now that I’ve read about the birds of the Corte Madera Marsh, I look forward to getting to know several which will be new to us: gadwall ducks, black-necked stilts, California clapper rails and California black rails, American avocets, and Forster’s terns.

From there the path turns and takes you through a dense “forest” of fennel. It’s a narrow squeeze between unruly pollen-laden branches, jutting into the path and full of buzzing bees. We just walked slowly and calmly and enjoyed observing the busy work of the honey bees collecting that abundant pollen. If you don’t know how important honey bees are to the pollination of our edible crops, other plants, and flowers (not to mention the wonderful products they produce which have a variety of health benefits for humans), and how they are challenged with habitat loss, pesticide use, and parasites, I encourage you to learn about it. These are good guys. They aren’t aggressive and won’t sting unless they feel threatened. We should be grateful for all they do for us and share with us, and we should all work to protect their hives and habitats.

Anyway, back to the fennel. I am blown away by the size and color of it. Jeph, at 6’3”, was dwarfed by it. And the brilliant yellow of the pollen and bright green of the stalks and stems, especially against a clear blue, cloudless sky, plus the vast amount of it – it was most impressive. This is another one of those uniquely Californian experiences (unless you travel to the Mediterranean, where it originates) and we never encountered it in San Francisco, the East Bay, or Los Angeles. A quick read tells me it’s actually considered an invasive species and may crowd out some of the natives, but given the pollen it’s supplying to the bees (and birds enjoy the seeds apparently), it seems like a good example of how there are two, or more, sides to every story. I remembered having read about fennel pollen a few years back and how it was a unique and quite tasty spice (I think the author was sprinkling it on popcorn…) so I’m reading up on harvesting the pollen (and the young fronds which can be eaten fresh or cooked up) and will write more about those culinary adventures.

Coming out of the “fennel forest” there are some gorgeous views of the surrounding hills, and the marsh and fields all around. Those golden hills and fields of rich earth-toned growth have got to be one of my favorite visuals here in Marin County. I’ve never been to the Tuscan countryside, but always admired it in paintings and photos. Now that we are here, in America’s Mediterranean, out of the city (finally!) and more in the country, I recognize the striking similarity between that part of Italy and our new home. Both are beautiful and we get to live in, and enjoy, one of them every day!

Then the path takes a second turn and heads south, back to the starting point. To the left is the Bay, for a good dose of ocean view and air. On that note, the breezes throughout this walk were steady and the air was very fresh. It was nice to be so close to the water but without a chilly breeze. The paths that lead out to the water are closed (not blocked off, but posted) to “protect endangered species and marsh habitat” – Amen to that. Also of note was the abundance of butterflies (J thinks one of those spotted was an Anise Swallowtail) and dragonflies. I love seeing them both and especially enjoy watching the haphazard flight pattern of dragonflies – it’s good fun!

I’m just starting to learn about this special place, home to a diversity of species including some which are endangered and such an important ecosystem to preserve and protect. I’m learning that conservation efforts have been helpful for the area and there are many enlightened and concerned citizens continuing that work. After just two months of calling it home, J and I are already appreciating that care, protection, and love of the environment as one of the wonderful things about Marin, and I know that we will be getting involved in that work.

It was the perfect walk based on our criteria for the day and, for a 2.25 mile loop across from a mall and busy road, it’s a surprisingly rich slice of nature.  We will visit again soon, field glasses in hand, and keep our eyes open for turtles, lizards, fish and other creatures, too.

These 2 quotes are from the Friends of Corte Madera Creek website, from an article written in 2008 by Roger Harris. They speak to the importance of being actively engaged in the protection of the natural world, and are also a cautionary reminder that the negative effects of our human actions are not easy, or quick, to “correct.”

Although much of our environmentally valuable marshland has been lost to development and some to invasive plants, much has also been preserved due to the actions of citizen activists. If birds are any indication, the protection, enhancement, and re-creation of Corte Madera Creek marshes has been a conservation success story.

Other marshlands have been restored, and much more could and should be. But restoration is inevitably a pale substitute for preservation. A properly and fully functioning marsh takes millennia of natural processes to develop and for all the pieces to operate in harmony.